INTRODUCTION:The biggest, baddest waves aren’t born that way. Winds at sea generate waves that average ten feet high; during storms, 30-footers are common.
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GET IN: But what creates waves the size of office buildings, including the ones big-wave surfers covet and coastal dwellers fear? In a word, land.
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A wave approaching a shoreline meets shallower and shallower water, slowing the wave’s leading edge.
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